1916
Oil on wood
National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa, Canada.
I arrive at Algonquin Provincial Park by car, and reach the water’s edge at Canoe Lake just as a flotilla of schoolchildren runs noisily aground. To the left of their canoes, dozens of empty ones are lined up by the Portage Store ready for hire, and beyond that holidaymakers paddle in a disorderly fashion out into the wider lake, which spreads north for a couple of miles, strewn with small islands and lined with dense ranks of white pines. Served by the only highway to bisect the park, it’s a relatively busy spot – about as close to a tourist hub as you will get in this protected patch of Canadian wilderness – but you only need to get a short distance from the tarmac before the lakes open out around you or the woods close in.
Canoe Lake receives thousands of visitors each year, but is known for one in particular. I spot his name on a signpost near the picnic tables: Tom Thomson, 1877–1917. ‘Before his death on this lake’, explains the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada, ‘he developed a bold new way of depicting our wilderness and [gave] Canadians a unique artistic heritage.’ The shop is stocked with Tom Thomson picture books and murder mysteries, while a map outside marks some key Tom Thomson sites: the old town of Mowat on the northwestern shore, where he spent his summer sojourns; the spots where his upturned canoe was found on 10 July 1917 and where his body was recovered six days later; the tiny plot where he was buried before being reinterred in his home town; the memorials to him at Hayhurst Point. Fittingly, the only way to get to any of them is by boat, or on foot.
Tom Thomson’s mysterious death (he was deemed to have drowned accidentally, but many people then and since have cried foul play) has become a modern legend in Canada, but the public’s fascination with the painter owes as much to the remarkable few years of artistic production that preceded it. His early career had been inauspicious: he worked as an illustrator and printmaker in Toronto from around 1909, and only focused seriously on painting in his 30s, at the encouragement of friends and patrons. In 1912, he made a brief visit to Algonquin, and from 1913 he returned regularly to the park for most of the spring, summer, and fall, exploring extensively and turning out a dazzling array of oil sketches on portable wood panels, before working up larger canvases in Toronto.
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