Les mannequins de Poiret, 1941
gouache and watercolour on paper
This work is also sold with a photo-certificate from Fanny Guillon-Laffaille.
Executed in 1941, Les mannequins de Poiret is filled with the cosmopolitan bustle of the races. The horses and the various fashionable figures are seen moving around on the bright green background. The eponymous models are shown wearing a variety of clothes in various styles and colours, but are clearly on discreet display, mingling as they are with much of the rest of the fashionable scene.
Dufy had been commissioned to provide designs for stationary by Paul Poiret in 1910, and for decades the pair worked together frequently. In this context, Dufy primarily provided designs for fabrics, while also creating paintings and decorations for the various rooms and parties that were used in the display of fashion. Important within this context was Dufy's hanging, one of several created according to his specifications, for Poiret's barge, the Orgues, also showing his models at the races. Several of the figures-- most notably the woman with her back turned to the viewer-- and the compositional elements in the present work have clearly been transferred from the older work. However, they have gained a great deal of spontaneity in this translation from the monumental to the far more intimate and vigorous medium of gouache and watercolour. Here, darting brushstrokes have been used to conjure the various figures into existence, lending the work a sense of movement that its predecessor completely lacked. In this sense, Les mannequins de Poiret appears to be a nostalgic visit to an older world, an older time, and a friendship that itself would be cut short by Poiret's death in 1944.
The theme of the races would become one of Dufy's most favoured, and he would visit courses in many nations in order to see not only the excitement of the equestrian activities, but also the variety of people. It was in fact through another connection in the fashion world that Dufy had initially gone to the races, his friend Bianchini. He was one of the heads of a company that printed many of the fabrics that Dufy designed for Poiret; later, Bianchini and Dufy would collaborate in other projects of their own. Bianchini felt that the races provided a perfect arena for Dufy to see what was in vogue in the world of fashion at a given moment, and would, like Poiret himself, often accompany the artist to the tracks.
(fig. 1) Poiret cape with Amphytrite design by Dufy, 1926. (Photo: Roger Viollet, fonds Lipnitzki); ? Roger Viollet, Paris, 2007.
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